We buy it to have class, but it could make us lose the little chic that we have if we do not take the time to choose it.How to find a good complete?
"The problem with your costume?"He is full of glue."Giovanni Secondo, tailor for 36 years, is categorical by examining the brown habit that I paid $ 300 in a department store."I do all my jets in my hand and they do not contain a drop.The glue reacts badly to dry cleaning.She ends up falling inside."Result, your complete looks ugly in less than six months.
Principal buyer of the complete men for 25 years at home Simons, Pierre Piché is less severe."I would have said that ten years ago.The glue has improved since.Especially, he doesn't seem impressed by my jacket."He lacks flexibility," he said finally.But his body language is more eloquent.He pouts, feeling my shoulder heads, comments the way the "falls" jacket, does not attribute much merit to chestpieces, this cotton fabric placed inside to give body to the costume.In short, the quality of a habit, in his eyes, is due to the quality of its components.The fabric first.
"The scarcity and beauty of the fabric will often justify the price of a costume," says Michel Brisson, of the eponymous shop in Outremont.According to him, even more than the fabric, of which it is difficult to judge excellence, design and cut will say a lot more about the perfect costume."The problem with yours is that it is not the right size." What ?
Specializing in Zegna and Tiger of Sweden, Michel Brisson finds that men are poorly advised."Too often, their habit is poorly adjusted, not fitted enough, too close.»I don't float in my coat, anyway!"Yes, yes, look," he makes you smiling, your jacket is too long, your pants go up too high, and the legs are too wide.We don't see your body!»Ah?
A slight paranoia takes hold of me.In the office, how much did they laugh at me behind my back?How much did I think I dressed at Daniel Specialties?And now, the next habit, I choose it based on what?
Michel Brisson argues that real buttonholes with wrists are very classy."For example, you have false buttonholes.In fact, it's not even false buttonholes, it's just pimples aligned one next to the other!It does not matter, "he concludes so that I am not sorry.
"On some jackets, you will notice a stitching on the reverse and on the flap of the pockets of the jacket," notes Pierre Piché.This is certainly a quality detail.»»
The first element that strikes Giovanni Secondo is the pace of the setback of the jacket."A ready-to-wear jacket is used to the machine, not to say crushed to the machine. Regardez, le revers de ce veston a cette courbe naturelle»», dit-il en le caressant fièrement.
Jean Lefebvre draws my attention to the finish of the interior pockets."In high -end jackets, a piece of fabric reinforces the pocket.There is no chance that she will sag over time, like yours.»»
The lining of the jacket is worth a look.Does it look like a shower curtain bought in dollarama or a flares tapestry?"The lining of your jacket will breathe a little less than that," says Pierre Piché, pointing to a costume at 795 dollars whose Italian lining, "will help without keeping the flexibility and shape of the garment.»»
A cheap lining, by the way, could soon exceed your sleeves and make you a emulating of Homer Simpson."We see the quality of a lining at its thickness.A good lining will always keep its smooth shape. On voit que ce n’est pas le cas de la vôtre»», laisse tomber Jean Lefebvre à la vue des 212 plis qu’arbore la doublure de mon veston.In this swamp of fine lines, it finds by pure chance a fold of ease, element of quality in his eyes.Placed in the middle of the back, it allows you to move without giving the impression that the jacket will tear our back. Le problème, c’est que celui de mon veston mesure à peine trois centimètres « alors qu’il devrait partir du cou et s’étirer jusqu’à la taille, pour un meilleur confort»».
Pants should be doubled to the knee.The presence of a magic strip around the waist, which helps to retain the shirt inside the pants, is also a good sign."Last index of a quality finish: the pants will include three closing points. Mais c’est pas toujours pratique quand on est pressé!»» lance Jean Lefebvre dans un éclat de rire.
I no longer wonder what is wrong with my complete.It is clear, a small shopping session is essential.Complete brown farewell!
To be monitored during your next purchase
Several criteria come into play when the time comes to buy a new follow.If we want it to go through the test of time, we will pay at least attention to five main elements:
1.The fabric.We will favor wool to any other fiber.
2.The colour.We will choose it sober.If we have three complete, a received idea wants them to be black, navy blue and gray.
3.Buttons.There may be three, but preferably two.
4.Back openings.A jacket with two side slots will last longer.
5.The setbacks of the jacket.They will be quite wide.Narrow reverses might look cool one season only.